Category Archives: People

Guanajuato Mexico: I have found my people

  

well…not really. these cutie-pies are actually French (probably by way of Senegal).

Michaella (13), Keppy (15) and Maranatha (16) were in town for a hot minute with their mom and older sister, both of whom i met later. it was so funny because i was WAY excited to see them and they just thought i was nuts. it didn’t help that the only common language we had between us we spanish and Keppy was the only one of the three who knew that! The older sister does actually speak English very well (as well as several other languages) and we had a great chat about working internationally, living in Mexico City (El D.F.) and you know, stuff that grown women talk about. it may not have meant much to them, but it made my day. well, until dinner time anyway and then Restaurant Luna made my night with an excellent Spaghetti Carbonara. by the way the two M’s are siblings and Keppy is their cousin.

Guanajuato Mexico: College Deja Vu?

 

The past few days have been so much fun that I have slacked on my spanish homework. As Dan points out, times like these are special because you are wise enough to know they can’t last. Eventually one or all of you will wake up and pack your bags to yield to the siren call of adventure. It has been a fun group in general, but Jorge, Andrea, Mario, Myrna and I seem to have bonded in a way that makes me smile even as I write this. Myrna and Mario are from Guanajuato and both speak maybe 5-10% english. Andrea is Swiss and knows french, german, spanish and english and Jorge is Mexican American (from California) and is fluent in english and spanish. As the week wore on our cash stashes seemed to dwindle and we were eating more and more pizza and the beer was getting cheaper and cheaper and at one point on a rainy afternoon (the day I took this pic) I had on a shirt that says “College” and that is exactly where I felt like I was. Complete with the spanish homework that I haven’t done and all.

Mulege Mexico: Adios NOLS

   

Alright already, the two of you left reading this thing don’t need to e-mail me off line to ask “what’s up with your whack, non-updating, supposed to be traveling, travel blog” it is so nice to be missed. But don’t make me come after you. And i will.

I decided to go with the majority vote and accept the contract. I bid “Hasta Luego” {see you later} to the NOLS crew. I’m going to miss the slow pace they have going on down there. The beautiful weather, the outdoor showers and the family style lunches. This pic is of Oscar and Karina. Both are from Mexico and are NOLS staff. Oscar is an instructor and Karina is an administrator with the finance group if I remember correctly. I got along well with everyone but I think the local staff gave me some cool points for really trying to get to know them and use my Spanish when I could. I would sit near Karina at lunch and speak to her in Spanish and she would respond in English. Her English is fine, so I was getting the better end of this deal. Oscar was in a sling because he had dislocated his shoulder doing some crazy A#$ adventure sport or another. I don’t remember if he was kayaking 23,232 miles, diving for oysters or what but this is typical of these guys (and gals: Hi Claire! Hi Sue!). They amaze me with their spirit of adventure. They think of and do stuff like trying to see how far they can free dive before coming up for air, fishing before sunrise and living on boats in the bay. I tend to think of things like: if I take a nap before lunch and a nap after lunch, will I still be able to sleep tonight?

I also scored when the seamstress (Conchita) saw my little naked Nikon coolpix II and asked if I had a case for it. I told her I didn’t because the one I had was too big. She asked to see the camera and said she’d make me a case. I’m thinking I’d get it in a few days, not even knowing how she was going to pull this off. But, Superseamstress™ woke me from my nap not 2 hours later with a custom-made, waterproof, padded, perfectly fitting, Velcro-closing case for my baby. I tried to offer her a gift or payment and she just laughed and patted my arm and said “no problem, you’re a nice lady I wanted to do this for you.” Wow. You can see I wasn’t really trying to leave this place of foosball on the back porch, indescribable sunrises and guilt-free naps. I will not however miss the birds or the dog.

The good thing about the backpacker lifestyle is that all your stuff is generally in one place and I was ready to roll in no time. Claire offered to drop me at the bus station and we laughed as she told me about her own adventures. She spends September-May in Mexico and May-August in Canada and the U.S. teaching kayaking courses. I can’t think of a better send-off from a special place than her stories and I really meant it when I said I hoped to be back soon. I only hope they were equally sincere when they said I was welcome any time.

The bus ride from Mulege to Tijuana/San Diego is about 15 hours and was a little steep at $80 US, but I soon found out why. These people know how to make long haul bus riding a luxury experience. The buses are extremely clean, most are Mercedes Benz made so they look sharp too. Now if you have been on a US Greyhound, throw that image out the window. It ain’t even close. The Mexican buses have about 1/3 less seats so you can stretch your legs all the way out in front of you (what a novel idea!), the seats are about 25% larger so you can actually sit next to someone and not have them reaching in your pocket to get your chapstick for you (what a novel idea!). This means that the aisles are very narrow and a little difficult to navigate but as the driver said to me “who spends any time in the aisle?” good point driver dude, good point. The windows have curtains on them so you can actually sleep without the light of day roasting one side of your face and they have movies! They were in Spanish but obviously first rate quality U.S. movies. This all combined to make for a wonderful ride for me (I was stretched out and knocked out 12 of the 15 hours) and I hope the little girl that fell asleep on me had a good nap too. She was gone when I woke up so I couldn’t ask her.

*A special “shout out” to Graham and Ledger. Graham posted an ad on craigslist and asked if anyone wanted to bike from California to Costa Rica to help a friend of his set up a farm he had inherited or turn it into a protected animal reserve or some such craziness-I mean why can’t I inherit some random property in central America? Yes, I’m drinking Hater-ade! Ledger answered the ad and I ran into them one morning on the beach when they were eating fruit, greeting the day and woo-ing (or rather un-woo-ing) two young local ladies. I was so dazzled by the stories of their bike trip so far that I forgot to take a picture. So if anyone sees two random white dudes with long hair and nice tans riding bikes down the baja, honk, wave and tell them crazy.black.chick. said Hello!

I made it to Tijuana and my first stop was….McDonalds. I know, for shame, for shame. But what’s a crazy.black.chick to do?

Mulege Mexico: NOLS-Dinner Time

       

Yummy!

I meant the food people! Get your minds out of the gutter!

I got a ride out to the NOLS compound from a really sweet couple from Oregon (Hi Earl & Cindy!). I met them at Equipales restaurant in Mulege proper a few days ago and they offered me a ride out to NOLS when they came back in town to do laundry a few days later. The ride out to Playa Coyote is about 25 minutes along a winding coastal road. There are alot of people that spend the North American Winter on the beaches down here in RVs right on the beach. Earl & Cindy are semi-retired and world travelers extraordinaire. They’ve done stints in Africa and Europe and South America in various educator roles. They refused my offer of gas money and wished me well on my adventures before heading off to their little slice of paradise two beaches south, loaded down with fresh drinking water and even fresher laundry.

I arrived in time to get a tour of the eco-friendly grounds from Nate, and get a not too welcome greeting from Uli (oooh-lee) the house dog who looks like a Husky with extra sharp teeth. This dog “has bitten people before” but everyone assures me that she’ll get used to me (wait, is that BEFORE or AFTER she decides to try out dark meat for a change?).

I showed up just in time for dinner which Roger and Marcio (above) fixed for the 6 of us that were around. We had cheese quesadillas and huevos rancheros and pacifico beer (noticing a theme here?). They are the cutest things aren’t they? Roger is from Spain and Marcio is from Brazil. The rest of the staff is equally cute and welcoming and are a well traveled and talented group of outdoor enthusiasts. These guys love what they do, because from what I can tell there is no money in it and it is hard to hold a relationship together when you are out in the field weeks or months at a time. We had a great discussion on diversity within the NOLS organization (I’m on the Board of Advisors and went to Africa with the group in 1997) and in the world in general. It was political and intellectual without any intensity or offensive tones. It just seems damn hard to get riled up in such a beautiful place. I’m interesed in seeing how life is on an eco-friendly compound with composting toilets and an outdoor shower.  There are no phones but a phenomenal internet connection.

Now if I can just find some way to keep my eye on that dog with the sharp teeth I might be able to fall in love with this place! Oh wait, and where am I sleeping exactly?

A Shout out

Actually, if you don’t count Bush, Mandrell or Streisand (whose parent’s were startlingly phonetic with the spelling), I only know four “Barbara’s”. One Barbara is a mentor, another a colleague and the last two are me and the woman I was named after. I usually just call her “Mom” but, whatever. My parents will never be renowned for their creativity (I’ll give you one guess who my brother is named after), but they have a bevy of other traits that make up for it. My mother is the typical familial matriarch. None of us were ever under the impression that we were living in a democracy. “Her way or the highway” wasn’t a playful turn of phrase, it was the eleventh commandment. Continue reading A Shout out

infatuation

Some of yall (all 3 of you who are reading this) know how much I love Malcolm Gladwell (aka My Baby’s Daddy). The NY Times has profiled him and my love grows stronger every day. I met him in 2005 when he came to speak as a Batten Fellow. I stalked the event planners so much (and impressed them with my knowledge of all things Malcolm) that they allowed me to drive him around for the afternoon. He was amazingly gracious, a gifted orator and a total cutie pie what with all that “absentminded professor hair”.  I read Tipping Point in 2003 and finished Blink a few months ago. He’s inspired a rash of books that “create a highly contagious hybrid genre of nonfiction, one that takes a nonthreatening and counterintuitive look at pop culture and the mysteries of the everyday” Here’s a little bit of the reason why I’d walk over hot coals to bring him cold water: Continue reading infatuation