Baja Mexico: Mulege


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Any traveler knows that there are essentially two truths that you will encounter if you vagabond for any length of time:

1) you will get ripped off at some point (even if only for a $1 or $2)

2) you will get sick

Fortunately, since my life’s valuables are taped inside my underwear (thanks for the advice H), I haven’t yet been hustled. Unfortunately, I had a stomach bug that wore me down a bit.

I hopped off the Green Tortoise trip in Mulege Mexico so that I can continue my travels from here. Mulege is an oasis in the desert, a little sleepy town set in a valley with a river that runs through it which means nice breezes and lots of greenery. Mulege weather reminds me alot of San Diego in that the temperature can vary between a chilly 60 degrees and a balmy 80 degrees during the day, but you’ll almost always want pants and a jacket at night. The people are friendly, the pace is slow, there is no ATM, one internet cafe, and the cutest elementary school you can imagine with Disney characters painted in a mural on the exterior. You can walk around the whole town in under 20 minutes.

I decided to recuperate here at Hotel Mulege ($32 US/night incl. TV, 2 bottles of water daily). After weeks of travel and camping I was so happy to stand in a piping hot shower, roll around on the two beds and brush my teeth with running water.

I got some meds from a mexican doctor who only charged $25 to see me and the farmacia (pharmacy) was right there at the clinic. For the most part I needed rest, the last 4 months of prep and packing and partying and then traveling fast and furious wore me out. It has been nice to sit, stare out the window, watch television (which those who know me is really, really rare) but mostly I slept, I walked around the town and slept some more. Restricted to a diet of bananas and water and juice I longed for tacos and oranges and a diet coke but was happy with the scenery and the quiet, a soul deep quiet that echoed “rest”. People around town began to say things like “oh I saw you at the taqueria yesterday” or they’d start asking me (in spanish) if the dog following me was mine, etc. All in all a nice place to recover for 5 days. The funny thing is, as nice as it has been to be in a hotel w/ a shower and t.v., I find myself missing the rugged adventure of “roughing it”.

I donated my tent, snorkel gear and life vest to Cortez Explorers and am now down to my main pack (30lbs) and my daybag (9.5lbs). So with renewed strength, increased confidence and lots of Mylanta, I am ready to begin the motion of traveling again.

It occured to me that one of the reasons that travel is so personally transforming is that it infuses you with confidence. That confidence stems from realizing that you CAN adapt to a harsh environment, that you CAN deal with hygiene issues without running water or a 7-11 store, that you CAN navigate a foreign medical system. You then believe that you CAN go further, delve deeper, risk more and if all else fails, try again. The dream of the traveler is that you CAN explore far away places, seek untold adventure and return home safely to tell the tale.

*for a truly harrowing tale of adventure on the high seas, check out this post by Megan!

8 thoughts on “Baja Mexico: Mulege”

  1. Wow,
    What an adventure you have been on! I love your spontanity and dare to discover the world. That photo is breathtaking! I am glad you finally slowed a bit for a nice hot shower and real sleep. I know how the feeling. I remember when I went to London, I had been up exploring the town for days, no its not exactly roughing it. But, its very different. I mingled with the locals, was attacked by bed bugs and became ill. So, yes, I do understand how one can move from excitement to despair within days. Overall it was one of the most exciting times in my life, despite the days of discomfort.

  2. welcome renee! so good to hear from you. i know you are a traveler too so i hope to hear about your own adventures! Hugs to you and keep me posted on how you are.

  3. Barbara,

    I could not agree with you more about that last paragraph! (I thinking I am losing a little of my confidence since Asia…ha!!ha!!…need to get back on the road!!)…but from the looks of it I guess u have not intention of coming back ever….ha…ha! I knew u would fall in luv with this adventure!!

    Where 2 next?

  4. Hey BarbaraDia

    I got curious about your whereabouts and remembered this blog. My last view of you was you (the green faced nubian princess) gamely marching up the hill in Mulege followed by 4 palefaced (think Oliiva) luggage bearers. Did you work with the Knolls? people? Did you go on to Antigua?

    Let your friends check out the trip pictures on Jim’s website and click on baja 2006

    I echo Anil’s question above Where 2 next?

    Jules from Jersey

  5. I miss you more than you know. I had some cajun cheesy fries tonight in your honor. Feel Better Please. Loves.

  6. @Anil: i see why people stay gone for so long! There is so much to see and the people i’ve met are the reason it is worth it. There have been so many days I wished you were here so we could laugh/look @ something.

    @Jules: Hugs to you! I’m all better now. LOL @ green faced nubian princess…awww…skip gave me the 411 on the rest of the ride back into CA.

    @Shida: Cajun cheese fries! oh man, i am missing my St. Maartens! Best wishes on finishing up 3L. I will be living off you and your fat attorney’s salary when my $ runs out so heads up!

  7. Amen sister! I agree with you about the travels. Ahhh… reading your blog is making me sooo nostalgic for that life. Sigh. Enjoy every last drop.

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